Active ingredients are those substances in cosmetics that actually work on the skin—reducing wrinkles, brightening discolorations, moisturizing, or strengthening the skin's protective barrier. The Active Ingredients Guide helps you understand how the most popular substances in professional cosmetics work and when to use them to achieve specific results!
Active ingredients aren't just marketing buzzwords – they are substances with proven effectiveness that penetrate the skin and influence the processes occurring within its cells. Retinol stimulates collagen production, niacinamide strengthens the hydrolipid barrier, and vitamin C protects against free radicals. Each ingredient has its own function and works best at a specific concentration, at the right pH, and in combination with other substances.
The key to conscious care is understanding what your skin needs. If you're struggling with signs of aging, reach for retinoids and peptides. If you have discoloration, vitamin C, alpha-arbutin, and niacinamide will be most effective. Dry skin needs ceramides and hyaluronic acid. You'll achieve the best results by combining ingredients that complement each other.
This is a category of ingredients that stimulate cell renewal, support collagen production and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
Retinol It's a vitamin A derivative that, once absorbed into the skin, transforms into retinoic acid—an active form that works at the cellular level. A 2024 study by Farris et al. showed that retinol 0.1% significantly improved the appearance of wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and discoloration after just four weeks of use. It stimulates collagen production, accelerates epidermal renewal, and smooths skin texture.
Retinol may initially cause irritation—this is a normal reaction called retinization. Therefore, it's best to introduce it gradually, starting two to three times a week in the evening. Always apply SPF in the morning, as retinol increases skin's photosensitivity.
Retinyl retinoate is a hybrid of retinoic acid and retinol – an innovative formula that combines effectiveness with gentleness. It works faster than classic retinol because it requires fewer conversion steps in the skin, but is also better tolerated. Our retinyl retinoate serum contains 0.3% of this substance in a stable formula that reduces wrinkles and improves skin firmness without severe irritation.
When to use retinoids:
Peptides These are short chains of amino acids that act as signals to the skin, telling fibroblasts it's time to produce collagen. There are different types of peptides: signal peptides (stimulating collagen production), carrier peptides (delivering trace elements), neurotransmitter peptides (relaxing muscles), and enzyme-inhibiting peptides (blocking collagen degradation).
Research from 2025 confirms that peptides improve collagen synthesis, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and support skin regeneration. They are well-tolerated, making them suitable for sensitive skin.
Argireline It's a neurotransmitter peptide that acts like "Botox in a cream." It blocks the release of neurotransmitters responsible for muscle contraction, making facial wrinkles less visible. While it doesn't produce the dramatic results of Botox, regular use can soften fine lines on the forehead and around the eyes.
Biotin (vitamin B7) supports healthy skin, hair, and nails. In facial care, it improves cellular metabolism, supports fatty acid synthesis, and strengthens the skin's protective barrier. Applied topically, it soothes inflammation and improves overall skin condition.
These ingredients rebuild the hydrolipid barrier, retain moisture in the skin and support its natural repair processes.
Hyaluronic acid It's a natural mucopolysaccharide that can bind up to 1,000 times its weight in water. It acts like a sponge in the skin, retaining moisture, filling wrinkles, and improving elasticity. Hyaluronic acid of varying molecular weights is used in cosmetics—low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid penetrates deeper, while high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid creates a moisturizing film on the surface.
Ceramide NG is a natural skin lipid that forms the foundation of the hydrolipid barrier. Skin deficient in ceramides rapidly loses moisture, becomes rough, and is prone to irritation. We created NG ceramide serum, which combines ceramides with peptides and niacinamide – this combination rebuilds the barrier, moisturizes and strengthens the skin's immunity.
Allantoin It's a soothing ingredient with anti-inflammatory and regenerative properties. It accelerates healing, reduces redness, and supports skin repair processes. It's very well tolerated, which is why it's often found in cosmetics for sensitive and reactive skin.
Jojoba seed oil It's actually a liquid wax with a composition similar to human sebum. This makes it well-tolerated by the skin – it doesn't clog pores, moisturizes, and protects against moisture loss. It contains vitamin E and fatty acids, which support regeneration. Jojoba Seed Oil Serum is an excellent choice for the skin of the neck and décolleté, which loses firmness particularly quickly.
Ingredients that rebuild the skin barrier:
Glycerin is a simple yet incredibly effective humectant—a substance that attracts water from deeper layers of the skin and from the air. It creates an occlusive layer on the skin's surface, preventing moisture loss. It is safe, well-tolerated, and found in most moisturizing cosmetics.
Panthenol (provitamin B5) is an ingredient that transforms into pantothenic acid upon penetration into the skin. It intensely moisturizes, soothes irritation, supports regeneration, and reduces inflammation. It's so versatile that it's suitable for all skin types—from dry, to sensitive, to problematic.
Centella asiatica (Centella Asiatica) is a plant with documented soothing and regenerative properties. It contains triterpenoids that accelerate healing, strengthen blood vessels, and stimulate collagen production. It works well on post-procedure, dry, or reddened skin.
DMAE is an organic compound that improves skin tone. It acts as a natural "lift"—firming, smoothing facial contours, and reducing the appearance of fine lines. The effect is visible after just a few weeks of regular use, but it's not permanent—it requires ongoing use.
These ingredients protect the skin against free radicals, lighten discolorations and even out skin tone.
Vitamin C is one of the most effective antioxidants in skincare. It protects against photoaging, stimulates collagen production, brightens discolorations, and improves skin tone. Our vitamin C serum contains a stable form of vitamin C combined with vitamin E and ferulic acid – this combination works synergistically, mutually reinforcing each other's effects.
Vitamin C In skincare, it requires a stable form – pure ascorbic acid oxidizes quickly. Therefore, derivatives such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate are used, which are stable and effective.
Vitamin E (tocopherol) is a powerful antioxidant that protects skin lipids from oxidation. It works synergistically with vitamin C – together they are more effective than separately. Vitamin E supports regeneration, soothes irritation, and strengthens the skin's protective barrier.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is one of the most versatile ingredients in skincare. It strengthens the hydrolipid barrier, regulates sebum secretion, soothes inflammation, brightens discolorations, and improves skin texture. Research by Marques et al. in 2024 confirms its wide range of applications, from acne and rosacea to skin aging.
Niacinamide at a concentration of 5-10% provides the best results without the risk of irritation. Our niacinamide serum contains 10% niacinamide combined with kojic and hyaluronic acid – evens out skin tone, reduces discoloration and moisturizes.
What niacinamide improves:
Azelaic acid This multifunctional ingredient boasts anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and brightening properties. It's used to treat acne, rosacea, and acne discoloration. Its gentle action makes it well-tolerated even by sensitive skin.
Tocopherol It's a form of vitamin E with strong antioxidant properties. It protects the skin from oxidative stress, supports regeneration, and soothes irritation. Combined with vitamin C, it works synergistically – they mutually regenerate and prolong each other's effects.
Alpha-arbutin is a natural hydroquinone derivative that inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production. This reduces sun, acne, and hormonal discoloration. It is effective and safe, so it can be used long-term. alpha-arbutin serum combines alpha-arbutin with kojic and ferulic acid for maximum brightening effect.
Alpha-arbutin compared to other ingredients It stands out for its effectiveness and safety. Hydroquinone works faster but can cause irritation and is not suitable for long-term use. Kojic acid is more gentle but less effective. Alpha-arbutin is the golden mean – it works effectively, does not cause irritation, and can be used for extended periods.
Exfoliating acids remove dead skin, accelerate cell renewal and improve the absorption of other active ingredients.
Lactic acid for the face It's a gentle alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). It exfoliates dead skin, moisturizes (acts as a humectant), and brightens discolorations. It's well-tolerated by sensitive skin, making it a good choice for those just starting out with acids.
Kojic acid This natural ingredient, derived from fungi, inhibits melanin production. It brightens, reduces discoloration, and evens out skin tone. It can be combined with other brightening ingredients, such as alpha-arbutin or vitamin C, for a synergistic effect.
Ferulic acid is a plant-based antioxidant that enhances the effects of vitamins C and E. It protects the skin from photoaging, neutralizes free radicals, and supports regeneration. It stabilizes vitamin C, prolonging its effectiveness in cosmetic formulas.
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that dissolves in fats, so it penetrates pores and cleanses them from the inside. It has exfoliating, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. It is especially effective for oily, acne-prone, and blackhead-prone skin.
Have questions about active ingredients? Check out our guide to active ingredients in cosmetics, where you will find answers to the most common doubts regarding the use, combination and selection of ingredients for a given skin type.
Active ingredients are the foundation of effective skincare—but only if you know how to use them. Understanding what your skin needs and how individual ingredients work allows you to build a routine that truly delivers results.
If you are looking for cosmetics with proven effectiveness and high concentrations, check out our offer – you will find science-based products there, created with conscious users in mind!
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