Active ingredients are the heart of every cosmetic—they're responsible for visible results and improved skin condition. In this article, we answer the most important questions about the most popular active ingredients—how they work, who they're recommended for, and how to combine them for effective and safe skincare!
Active ingredients are substances with documented effects on the skin—hydrating, regenerating, brightening, stimulating collagen production, and soothing irritation. Unlike base ingredients (water, emulsifiers, preservatives) that stabilize the formula, active ingredients directly impact the skin's condition. Their effectiveness depends on concentration, stability, and application method.
The base ingredients are water, emulsifiers, thickeners, and preservatives – they have no effect on the skin but create the cosmetic's structure. The active ingredients are vitamins, acids, peptides, and ceramides – are responsible for the care effects.
Active ingredients have various functions: they moisturize (hyaluronic acid), regenerate (retinoids, peptides), brighten (vitamin C, arbutin), soothe (panthenol, allantoin), rebuild the barrier (ceramides) and protect against aging (antioxidants).
The choice of active ingredients depends on skin type and its concerns. Oily skin needs niacinamide and sebum-regulating acids. Dry skin requires ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and oils. Mature skin needs retinoids, peptides, and antioxidants. Sensitive skin needs panthenol, allantoin, and soothing ingredients.Good neckline cream with peptides and DMAE firms the skin in areas particularly susceptible to loss of firmness.
Active ingredients for different skin types:
Dry skin needs ceramides, hyaluronic acid, natural oils, and shea butter. Oily skin needs niacinamide, AHA/BHA acids, zinc, and light humectants.
Vitamin C It's a powerful antioxidant that protects the skin from free radicals, brightens discolorations, supports collagen production, and improves skin tone. Recommended for all skin types, especially mature, discolored, and tired skin. Designed by us the best vitamin C serum combines vitamin C with vitamin E and ferulic acid, which enhances its effect and stability.
Benefits of using vitamin C:
The most stable forms are Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Glucoside and Ethyl Ascorbic Acid – they do not oxidize as quickly as pure L-ascorbic acid and are better tolerated by sensitive skin.
Vitamin C combines well with vitamin E, ferulic acid and niacinamide. Avoid combining with retinoids and acids at one time – they can neutralize each other or irritate the skin.
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that stimulates cell renewal, increases collagen production, reduces wrinkles, and improves skin texture. It's one of the most effective anti-aging ingredients with documented effects. Anti-wrinkle serum with retinyl retinoate – a stable form of retinol – works effectively, but more gently than pure retinol, also suitable for sensitive skin.
Start with a low concentration (0.1-0.31 TP3T) applied 2-3 times a week in the evening. Increase the frequency after 2-3 weeks. The skin needs time to adapt – Initial peeling and redness is normal.
Apply retinol to dry skin and wait 20 minutes after washing your face. Combine with a cream containing ceramides and panthenol. Always use SPF in the morning. If irritation is severe, reduce the frequency or concentration.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a multifunctional ingredient – it strengthens the protective barrier, soothes inflammation, regulates sebum production, brightens discolorations, and reduces redness. It is suitable for all skin types, especially oily, sensitive, and discolored skin. Niacinamide Serum in a concentration of 10% it effectively supports the skin without causing irritation.
You'll see the effects of niacinamide at a concentration of 2-5%, but the best results are seen at 5-10%. It strengthens the hydrolipid barrier, reduces sebum production, soothes inflammation, and evens out skin tone.
Niacinamide combines well with most ingredients – ceramides, peptides, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C. Avoid combining it with pure L-ascorbic acid at a very low pH – they can neutralize each other.
Hyaluronic acid It's a humectant that binds water to the skin—one molecule can bind up to 1,000 water molecules. It intensely moisturizes, improves firmness, and smooths fine lines. Recommended for all skin types, especially dry and dehydrated skin.
Low-molecular-weight (low molecular weight) penetrates deeper into the skin, moisturizing deeper layers. High-molecular-weight (high molecular weight) acts superficially, creating a protective layer. The best cosmetics combine both forms.
Humectants (hyaluronic acid, glycerin) should be applied to damp skin and always followed by a cream or emollient to seal water in the epidermis. Humectants, on their own, can dry out the skin by drawing moisture from deeper layers.
AHAs (glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids) act on the skin's surface, exfoliating dead skin, brightening, and smoothing. BHAs (salicylic acid) dissolve in fat, penetrate pores, cleansing them, and regulating sebum. PHAs (lactobionic and gluconic acids) are more gentle, suitable for sensitive skin.
Action of acids:
Dry and mature skin – AHA (lactic, almond). Oily and problematic skin – BHA (salicylic). Sensitive skin – PHA (lactobionic). Start with low concentrations and observe your reaction.
Use chemical peels 1-3 times a week, depending on the concentration and skin type. Start with once a week, gradually increasing the frequency. Always use SPF the next day.
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as signals for the skin, stimulating collagen and elastin production, smoothing wrinkles, and improving skin firmness. Recommended for mature skin experiencing a loss of firmness.
Types of peptides and their effects:
Peptides stimulate fibroblasts to produce collagen and elastin, improving skin texture and smoothing wrinkles. They are recommended for preventative measures after the age of 30, or after the age of 40, when skin begins to lose firmness.
Peptides combine well with niacinamide, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and vitamins. Their effects are enhanced by antioxidants and moisturizing ingredients.
Ceramides are natural skin lipids that form a protective barrier over the epidermis, preventing water loss and protecting against external factors. Recommended for dry, sensitive, atopic, and weakened skin.
Ceramides rebuild the lipid layer of the epidermis, replenish the hydrolipid barrier, prevent water loss and strengthen the skin's immunity. Cream with ceramides Intensively moisturizes, regenerates and soothes irritations – ideal for skin requiring regeneration.
Lipids (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids) form the skin's protective barrier. They are recommended when skin is dry, rough, or flaking, or after treatments that weaken the barrier (peels, retinoids).
Antioxidants neutralize free radicals that accelerate skin aging, destroy collagen, and lead to discoloration. The most important include vitamins C and E, coenzyme Q10, resveratrol, and niacinamide.
The most important antioxidants in care:
Vitamin E protects cell membranes from oxidation and supports regeneration. Vitamin C neutralizes free radicals, brightens, and supports collagen. Coenzyme Q10 supports energy production in cells and protects against aging.
In summer, the most important ingredients are vitamins C, E and niacinamide – they strengthen SPF protection, neutralize free radicals created by UV radiation and support skin regeneration after sun exposure.
Soothing ingredients include panthenol, allantoin, bisabolol, and chamomile, aloe, and centella asiatica extracts, which reduce redness, soothe irritation, and support regeneration. Recommended for sensitive, reactive, and post-treatment skin. Moisturizing cleansing gel with panthenol and aloe vera, gently cleanses without irritating the skin.
Panthenol (provitamin B5) moisturizes, supports regeneration, soothes.
Allantoin has anti-inflammatory properties, accelerates healing.
Bisabolol (from chamomile) reduces redness, has a soothing effect.
Plant extracts (aloe, pennywort) soothe and protect.
Use them every morning and evening – a serum with panthenol and niacinamide, and a cream with allantoin and ceramides. Avoid unnecessary ingredients that may irritate – fragrances, alcohol, and strong acids.
Brightening ingredients include vitamin C, arbutin, azelaic acid, kojic acid, and niacinamide – they inhibit melanin production, lighten discolorations, and even out skin tone. We recommend alpha-arbutin serum, which effectively reduces pigmentation spots and prevents the formation of new ones.
Arbutin inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production. Azelaic acid brightens, has anti-inflammatory properties, and regulates sebum production. Vitamin C inhibits melanogenesis and lightens existing discolorations.
Use arbutin or azelaic acid in the morning and vitamin C in the evening. Avoid combining with strong acids at the same time. Always use SPF to protect your skin from exacerbating discoloration.
We created facial cosmetics, which combine high concentrations of active ingredients with a safe, well-thought-out composition – without unnecessary additives, with documented effectiveness and gentleness for sensitive skin!
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