Retinol has long been the gold standard in anti-aging skincare, but more and more people are looking for a gentler way to achieve the same results. Bakuchiol and vitamin C are a duo that targets wrinkles, skin tone, and firmness without the typical irritation of retinoids. We explain what these ingredients are, why they work better together, and what skin types they're best for. Learn how to fit them into your routine!
In short about the bakuchiol and vitamin C duo:
- Bakuchiol – a plant compound from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, in tests it had an anti-wrinkle effect similar to retinol.
- Vitamin C – brightens discolorations and supports collagen, but is sensitive to oxidation.
- Together – strengthen photoprotection and improve skin tone.
- Security – works gently, for sensitive and vascular skin.
- In summer and during pregnancy – a reasonable alternative to retinol.
Bakuchiol and Vitamin C – What Are These Ingredients?
Bakuchiol and vitamin C are ingredients of different origins, but they share a common goal: slowing down skin aging. Their combination is one of the most interesting anti-aging trends of recent years.
It can be helpful serum with vitamin C+E, which combines tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate with vitamin E and ferulic acid – three stable antioxidants in one step.
What is bakuchiol and why do they call it "plant-based retinol"?
Bakuchiol is a compound derived from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, which has been used for centuries in Ayurvedic medicine. Chemically, it has no relation to vitamin A, yet it produces similar effects: smoothing wrinkles, improving skin tone, and firming the skin. The name "plant retinol" comes from the similarity in its effects – bakuchiol targets the same collagen synthesis genes, but via a different pathway.
A study by American dermatologist Sonya Dhaliwal published in the British Journal of Dermatology (2019) compared bakuchiol with retinol for 12 weeks – both groups saw an improvement in wrinkles, but bakuchiol caused significantly less irritation.
Vitamin C in cosmetics – how does it affect the skin?
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals produced in the skin by exposure to sunlight and pollution. It stimulates collagen production, inhibits discoloration, and brightens skin tone.
The form is key – pure ascorbic acid is effective but unstable, so you're more likely to find stable derivatives like tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in cosmetics. This form penetrates deeper and doesn't oxidize as quickly. Choose a formula with tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate – a natural vitamin C serum in a modern formula can be a better choice than pure acid, especially for sensitive skin.
Bakuchiol + vitamin C – why does it work?
The combination of bakuchiol and vitamin C works on two levels: antioxidant and anti-wrinkle. The ingredients complement each other – a classic example of synergy.
What exactly does each ingredient do:
- Vitamin C – protects against free radicals, inhibits discoloration, stimulates collagen.
- Bakuchiol – stimulates collagen synthesis and cell renewal without irritation.
- Together – bakuchiol stabilizes vitamin C, and vitamin C enhances anti-wrinkle effects.
How does bakuchiol enhance the effects of vitamin C?
Bakuchiol has antioxidant properties that support the function of vitamin C. When vitamin C neutralizes free radicals, it oxidizes itself – bakuchiol limits this process and prolongs its activity. A study by Indian biochemist Adhikari, published in Phytomedicine (2014), examined skin protection against oxidative stress from UV radiation – skin with bakuchiol retained more natural antioxidants than skin without it.
Is this duo safe during pregnancy?
Bakuchiol with vitamin C is considered one of the safest anti-aging combinations during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Retinol is contraindicated due to the risk of fetal harm – bakuchiol is not a derivative of vitamin A, and topical vitamin C is considered safe. It's best to consult a doctor in each case.
Who is bakuchiol with vitamin C instead of retinol for?
Bakuchiol and vitamin C work well where classic retinol is too aggressive – on sensitive, vascular, thin skin, post-treatment skin, or for those who have skipped retinol due to irritation. It's also a good choice for summer. We offer the C/E/Ferulic Serum, which combines stable vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid – a classic antioxidant shield recommended by dermatologists.
Sensitive and vascular skin
Sensitive and vascular skin reacts to retinol with redness and burning – bakuchiol has a much milder effect. Remember, it doesn't disrupt the barrier and doesn't cause typical retinol irritation. Vitamin C strengthens blood vessel walls. A moisturizing serum with vitamin C and hyaluronic acid is a good choice for this type of skin. More in sensitive skin care.
Anti-aging care in summer
In the summer, skin is more exposed to UV rays. Bakuchiol doesn't cause sun sensitivity, so you can use it morning and night without worry. A vitamin C serum for summer is a practical choice—it neutralizes free radicals that form despite sunscreen. Apply a daytime vitamin C serum after cleansing, then add SPF.
When this duo works best:
- Sensitive skin – when retinol burns and irritates.
- Capillary skin – vitamin C strengthens the walls of blood vessels.
- After aesthetic treatments – gentle but active ingredients.
- During pregnancy and breastfeeding – bakuchiol does not have the contraindications of retinol.
- In the summer – both ingredients do not cause sun sensitivity.
Retinyl retinoate – a modern alternative to classic retinol
For those who find bakuchiol insufficient, a reasonable intermediate step is retinyl retinoate—a stable retinol derivative with higher efficacy and lower irritation potential. Retinyl Serum Contains 0.3% retinyl retinoate with peptides and niacinamide – three ingredients that work together to stimulate collagen without the typical irritation of retinol.
How to incorporate bakuchiol and vitamin C into your routine?
Bakuchiol and vitamin C can be used together in one routine. The most common regimen is vitamin C in the morning, bakuchiol in the evening. Check if you have a product that combines both ingredients – if so, apply it 1-2 times a day. Introduce it gradually: 2-3 times a week, then daily.
The sequence of steps in the Bakuchiol and Vitamin C routine:
- Cleaning – a gentle gel or foam that does not disturb the barrier.
- Assets – vitamin C in the morning on dry skin, bakuchiol in the evening (or both together under the cream).
- Moisturizing cream – with ceramides or peptides to strengthen the barrier.
- SPF 50 filter – in the morning, a must, even in winter and on cloudy days.
In the morning after your entire routine, always apply Reboot SPF 50 Without a sunscreen, antioxidant protection is pointless. Our Restart SPF 50 has a light, fluid consistency and doesn't leave a white film. Make sure you apply two fingers of the product to your face – that's how much you really need for the sunscreen to work.
Bakuchiol – the future or a passing trend?
Bakuchiol isn't a trend that will fade away in a year. For a decade, it has appeared in scientific publications as a gentle alternative to retinoids. It doesn't completely replace retinol, but it has earned a permanent place as a tool for those who don't benefit from retinoids. Patience pays off – results are visible after 8-12 weeks of consistent use.
FAQ: Bakuchiol and Vitamin C FAQs
Will bakuchiol replace retinol?
Bakuchiol works well as a gentler alternative for sensitive skin or when retinol is contraindicated, but it does not replace it in every case.
Can you combine bakuchiol with retinol?
Bakuchiol and retinol can be used together – bakuchiol then softens the effects of retinol and reduces the risk of irritation.
What time should I use bakuchiol?
You can use Bakuchiol in the morning and evening because it does not make your skin sensitive to the sun.
Does bakuchiol help with discoloration?
Bakuchiol evens out skin tone and reduces the visibility of discolorations, especially when combined with vitamin C.
Footnotes:
- Dhaliwal S., Rybak I., Ellis SR et al., "Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoaging", British Journal of Dermatology, 2019. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16918
- Adhikari S., Joshi R., Patro BS et al., "Antioxidant activity of bakuchiol and difference in activity between bakuchiol and 12a-hydroxy-bakuchiol", Phytomedicine, 2014. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.phymed.2013.08.009
- Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K., "Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects", International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2014. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12117