Niacinamide has gained significant popularity in skincare thanks to its versatile benefits. 10% of niacinamide in a single serum can reduce discoloration, minimize pores, and strengthen the skin barrier simultaneously. This form of vitamin B3 is one of the most researched ingredients in cosmetology, and its versatility makes it suitable for all skin types. In this article, you'll learn how niacinamide works in daily skincare and what to look for when choosing products containing this active ingredient.
What you should know about niacinamide:
- A form of vitamin B3 – active form of niacin, safe for all skin types
- Reduces the visibility of pores and regulates sebum secretion
- Reduces discoloration – inhibits melanin transfer, evening out the color
- Strengthens the hydrolipid barrier – stimulates the synthesis of ceramides in the skin
What is niacinamide?
Niacinamide is an active, water-soluble form of vitamin B3 that, when applied to the skin, penetrates the epidermis and acts on multiple levels simultaneously. In cosmetics, it is found in concentrations ranging from 2% to 10%. Lower concentrations are sufficient for moisturizing, while 10% niacinamide provides full depigmenting and sebum regulating action. What does niacinamide help with?? For discoloration, enlarged pores, dryness and loss of firmness.
Niacinamide is exceptionally stable because it does not degrade under the influence of light, temperature, or pH changes. It is well tolerated even by sensitive skin and reactive, it doesn't cause peeling or redness. You can incorporate it into your skincare routine from day one without an adaptation period.
Niacinamide – effects
A balanced concentration of niacinamide in skincare products can provide significant benefits, such as:
- improvement of the skin barrier,
- reduction of redness,
- smoothing fine lines and wrinkles,
- regulation of sebum production.
Niacinamide in daily skincare supports ceramide synthesis, strengthening the skin barrier and increasing the skin's ability to retain moisture. It has anti-inflammatory properties, which can bring relief to sensitive skin and skin with various types of irritation or inflammation.
Niacinamide for discoloration and uneven skin tone
Niacinamide reduces discoloration by inhibiting the transfer of melanosomes (pigment-containing vesicles) from melanocytes to keratinocytes. It doesn't completely block melanin production, but limits its transport to the upper layers of the epidermis. Discoloration have different causes, but niacinamide works on all types. After just 4-6 weeks skin tone becomes more uniform.
The effect of niacinamide on various types of discoloration:
- Sun spots – inhibits melanin transport, brightens after 4-6 weeks
- Acne discoloration – supports regeneration and evens out skin tone
- Hormonal changes – soothes discoloration with regular use
- Uneven coloring – evens out the complexion and restores radiance
Niacinamide for enlarged pores and acne
Niacinamide regulates the function of the sebaceous glands, reducing sebum production by up to 20-30%. Enlarged pores become much less visible when not stretched by excess sebum. Skin looks smoother and more matte without drying out. In the case of acne, niacinamide soothes inflammation and supports barrier repair, which minimizes irritation accompanying acid or retinoid therapy.
Benefits of niacinamide for oily and acne-prone skin:
- Sebum reduction – reduces sebum secretion by 20-30%
- Smaller pores – pores look less visible without being stretched by sebum
- Anti-inflammatory effect – soothes redness and inflammation
Research confirms the effectiveness of niacinamide
Analyzing the study conducted by DLBissett, JE Oblong, CABerge and funded by The Procter&Gamble Company, Miami Valley Laboratories, a reduction in hyperpigmentation (significant effects after 8 weeks of use) and a reduction in facial redness (after 12 weeks) were observed with the topical application of 5% niacinamide.
How to use niacinamide in daily care?
Niacinamide can be used freely morning and night. Apply to cleansed skin before moisturizer. Two to three drops are sufficient for the face, neck, and décolleté. Niacinamide in daily care It doesn't require an adaptation period, so you can start with daily use. Our niacinamide serum from the Regime line contains 10% niacinamide with kojic acid and lactic acid.
Niacinamide in your morning and evening routine:
- In the morning – cleansing, niacinamide serum, moisturizing cream, SPF 50
- In the evening with retinol – cleansing, niacinamide serum, wait 10 minutes, retinoid, cream
- In the evening without retinol – cleansing, AHA/BHA acid, niacinamide serum, cream
- After the treatments – gentle cleansing, niacinamide serum, regenerating cream
- All year round – UV filter in the morning, niacinamide as a permanent part of the routine regardless of the season
Choosing the right niacinamide products
When choosing products containing niacinamide, it's worth paying attention to the concentration of this substance, which is crucial for its effectiveness, as well as to other active ingredients contained in the products we use. For example, niacinamide can be used alongside AHA/BHA acids, retinol, or vitamin C, but it's important to choose the right concentration and application times.
Its versatile benefits make it a popular ingredient in cosmetic formulas, from moisturizing creams to serums. In Rue de Skin cosmetics, niacinamide is used at a concentration of 10% in the serum, and 3% in the moisturizer.
What to combine niacinamide with and what to avoid?
Niacinamide safely combines with almost any active ingredient. It works perfectly with retinoids, soothing their irritating effects. With hyaluronic acid, it creates a moisturizing and regenerating duo, and with vitamin C, it enhances antioxidant protection. The only combination that requires attention is niacinamide with pure L-ascorbic acid with a pH below 3.5.
Best and risky combinations with niacinamide:
- Retinol and retinoids – enhances the anti-aging effect, soothes irritations
- Hyaluronic acid – intense hydration and barrier reconstruction
- Ceramides and peptides – synergistic enhancement of skin regeneration
- AHA/BHA acids – can be combined, niacinamide soothes irritations after exfoliation
- Vitamin C (stable forms) – safe brightening connection
- L-ascorbic acid (pH <3.5) – may cause redness, use separately
Who is niacinamide for?
Niacinamide is suitable for virtually all skin types. Those with oily skin will appreciate it. sebum regulation and smaller pores. Dry skin will benefit from improved hydration thanks to a strengthened barrier. Sensitive skin will benefit from soothing properties. There are very few contraindications, as niacinamide is safe even during pregnancy and lactation.
Niacinamide for different skin types:
- Oily and combination skin – sebum regulation, reducing the visibility of pores
- Dry skin – strengthening the hydrolipid barrier and better hydration
- Sensitive skin – anti-inflammatory and soothing effect without irritation
- Mature skin – collagen support and skin tone evening
Cosmetics with niacinamide in inter-treatment care
Cream with niacinamide and ceramides This is a key product in inter-treatment care, combining barrier repair with brightening properties. We created it with skin requiring regeneration after aesthetic treatments in mind. Pay attention to the niacinamide concentration and additional ingredients, as they determine the final result.
FAQ – Frequently asked questions about niacinamide
Can niacinamide be used with retinol?
Yes, niacinamide combines well with retinol. It soothes retinoid irritation and strengthens the skin barrier. Apply it before your retinoid or in the morning after your retinol at night.
What concentration of niacinamide is most effective?
The optimal concentration is 5-10%. At 5%, hydration and soothing are visible, while 10% provides full depigmentation and sebum-regulating action.
Does niacinamide lighten the skin?
Yes, niacinamide evens out skin tone by inhibiting the transport of melanin to the upper layers of the epidermis. It reduces discoloration after 4-8 weeks of regular use.
Can niacinamide be used during pregnancy?
Yes, niacinamide is safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding. It is not absorbed into the bloodstream in significant amounts after application to the skin.
Footnotes:
- Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: AB vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg. 2005
- Gehring, W., "Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin", Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2004. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Hakozaki, T. et al., "The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer", British Journal of Dermatology, 2002. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.04834.x
- Wohlrab, J., Kreft, D., "Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology", Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2014. https://doi.org/10.1159/000354978
- Wohlrab J, Kreft D. Niacinamide – mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014