Hyaluronic acid is often mentioned in the context of cosmetics and skincare. It's important to remember that hyaluronic acid in cosmetics It is a very valuable addition and fulfills specific functions, but we should not forget about other active ingredients and pay attention to the mixture of hyaluronic acid molecules contained in the cosmetic we want to use.
In this article you will learn, what functions does hyaluronic acid perform?, why it is so important for our skin and what mixture of hyaluronic acid should contain the products you intend to include in your care routine, to bring maximum benefits to your skin.
Despite its relatively simple construction hyaluronic acid It performs many functions in the human body, binding to various receptors and thus influencing, among others, cell adhesion, migration, lymphocyte activation, and keratinocyte proliferation.
Hyaluronic acid in the skin regulates water balance, osmotic pressure, ion flow, and functions as a kind of "sieve" by eliminating certain molecules.
However, the most important thing in the context of care is the fact that hyaluronic acid is hygroscopic. What does this mean? As we said earlier, hyaluronic acid in the skin regulates water balance thanks to its ability to bind water molecules. One HA (hyaluronic acid) molecule binds 1000 H2O molecules.
This property of hyaluronic acid is crucial and beneficial for our skin, but it's crucial to remember that, in certain situations, using the wrong hyaluronic acid for dry skin can worsen the problem. This is discussed in more detail two paragraphs below.
Aging is a non-linear process (there are times in our lives when we age faster and times when we age slower). Aging depends on factors such as genetics, external factors (exposure to UVA, UVB, environmental pollution), and internal factors (general health, medications, level of physical activity, stimulants, diet, daily home care, stress, etc.).
Whereas skin aging is related to, among others, loss of hyaluronic acid content. The process of hyaluronic acid loss begins after the age of 25. The skin contains approximately 50% of the body's total hyaluronic acid (0.5-1 mg/g of skin). Significantly more hyaluronic acid is found in the dermis than in the epidermis. The ability of hyaluronic acid to bind water, both in the dermis and epidermis, is crucial for maintaining an adequate level of hydration and, consequently, a younger appearance. Interestingly, it is not the content of hyaluronic acid itself that decreases with age, but rather the content of hyaluronic acid-binding proteins (HABPs). hyaluronic acid binding proteins).
With age, processes degradation of hyaluronic acid in the skin begin to outweigh its synthesis, and the number of receptors to which HA can attach decreases. This is why mesotherapy treatments (i.e. intradermal administration of non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid) and cosmetics with hyaluronic acid. Unfortunately, exogenous (i.e., supplied to our body from outside) hyaluronic acid is metabolized quite quickly.
It seems that the molecular weight of exogenous hyaluronic acid has a major influence on its effect. HMW-HA (high molecular weight hyaluronic acid) has very limited penetration through the epidermis into the dermis, and LMW-HA (low weight molecular hyaluronic acid) has the ability to penetrate through the epidermis into the dermis.
Research on the effectiveness of the application is ongoing. hyaluronic acid preparations in cosmetics. Scientific reports support the superiority of products containing a mixture of LMW-HA and HMW-HA, but there are also scientific studies indicating the superior effects of LMW-HA.
Therefore, it is very important to choose cosmetics that contain both low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (LMW-HA), which penetrates the dermis and binds water there, and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid (HMW-HA), which remains in the epidermis.
If the dermis is dehydrated (the skin is dry, feels tight, is easily irritated, and creases persist, for example, from bed linen), using products containing only high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid can exacerbate this problem. This draws water from the dermis into the epidermis. While short-term use of creams with HMW-HA may visually improve the appearance of the skin, it will exacerbate dryness problems in the long term.
It's definitely worth it! To achieve the best results from your daily skincare routine, you should use both hyaluronic acid, How antioxidants (How vitamin C, vitamin E), retinoids, and above all sun protection.
Sources:
Read also:
