Which AHA and BHA acids are best for mature skin care?

AHA and BHA acids are among the most commonly used ingredients in skincare, yet many people don't know which to choose. Both exfoliate, and both improve the complexion's appearance, but they do so very differently. AHAs dissolve dead cells on the surface of the skin, while BHA penetrates deeper and cleanses the pores. Learn how they differ and how to match them to your skin's needs!

The most important facts about AHA and BHA acids:

• AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) – water-soluble, act on the surface of the epidermis, brighten and smooth the skin
• BHA (beta-hydroxy acids) – fat-soluble, penetrates pores and regulates sebum secretion
• Both types of acids accelerate cell renewal and improve skin tone
• Concentration and pH determine the effectiveness and safety of using acids
• Sun protection is mandatory when using exfoliating acids

What are AHA and BHA acids?

AHA and BHA acids are organic exfoliating acids that remove dead skin cells and accelerate skin renewal. AHAs, or alpha-hydroxy acids, are water-soluble and include glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids. BHAs, or beta-hydroxy acids, are primarily salicylic acid A fat-soluble oil that penetrates the inside of pores. AHAs work on the skin's surface, while BHAs reach deeper, to the sebaceous glands.

AHA and BHA acids – what are the differences?

AHA acids, such as glycolic acid, lactic acid or almond, are soluble in water and They act mainly on the surface of the epidermis. They gently exfoliate dead skin cells, improving skin texture, brightening discolorations, and stimulating collagen production. This leaves the complexion more radiant, smooth, and moisturized.

In turn, BHA acids, BHAs, such as salicylic acid, are fat-soluble, meaning they penetrate the sebum layer and reach deeper layers of the skin. This makes them effective in cleansing pores, regulating sebum secretion, and reducing inflammation. BHAs are particularly recommended for those with oily and blemish-prone skin, but due to their anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, they can also be helpful in caring for mature skin, especially in reducing enlarged pores and discoloration.

The effect of AHA and BHA acids on the skin

AHAs dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells, revealing smoother, more even-toned skin. Regular use stimulates collagen production, which translates into reduction of fine wrinkles. Lactic acid and glycolic acids cope particularly well with post-inflammatory discoloration after acne.

BHA penetrates deep into pores and dissolves accumulated sebum. Salicylic acid has anti-acne properties. antibacterial and anti-inflammatory, regulates the function of the sebaceous glands and reduces skin shine. Both AHA and BHA in higher concentrations are the basis chemical peels performed in offices.

Notice the differences in the effects of the two groups of acids.

Effects of regular use of exfoliating acids:

• Smoothing the texture – dead skin gives way to smoother, healthier skin
• Brightening the complexion – faster cell renewal reduces discoloration
• Pore cleansing – BHA dissolves blackheads from the inside
• Color evenness – exfoliation gives the skin a uniform appearance

Who are AHA and BHA acids for?

AHAs are great for those with dry, dull skin – they combat discoloration and the first signs of aging. BHA is the choice for oily and blemish-prone skin – it controls sebum and prevents blackheads. If you struggle with both discoloration and enlarged pores, alternate between using both types. sensitive skin should start with lactic or mandelic acid in low concentration. active ingredients in cosmetics to skin type requires knowledge of their mechanisms of action.

Why are acids effective in the care of mature skin?

As we age, skin loses its ability to naturally regenerate, becomes thinner and less elastic, and the process of exfoliating dead skin cells slows down. This can cause mature skin to appear dull, uneven, and less firm. 

AHA and BHA acids are some of the most effective ingredients supporting mature skin because:

• They stimulate collagen production, which helps to improve skin firmness and elasticity.
• They help reduce discoloration, brightening pigmentation spots and evening out skin tone.
• Smoothes fine lines and wrinkles, making the skin look younger and more radiant.
• They accelerate regeneration processes by exfoliating dead skin cells. and supporting cell renewal.
• They cleanse the skin and tighten pores, which is especially important for people with a tendency to adult acne or overproduction of sebum.
• Regular use of acids in the care of mature skin can significantly improve its appearance, making it more elastic. radiant, taut and uniform.

How to use AHA and BHA acids?

While AHA and BHA acids are proven effective, improper use can lead to irritation, dry skin, or hypersensitivity to UV radiation. To avoid adverse reactions, it's important to follow a few rules:

• Start with a lower concentration (5-8% for AHA, 0.5-1% for BHA) – if you are just introducing acids into your skincare routine, choose products with a lower active substance content and use them every few days.
• Be careful with sensitive skin – If you're prone to irritation, opt for milder acids, such as lactic or malic acid. A slight tingling sensation is normal, but burning or peeling indicates too high a concentration.
• Keep hydrated – the use of acids can lead to moisture loss in the skin, so it is important to supplement care with moisturizing creams with ceramides, hyaluronic acid or panthenol.
• Sunscreens it's a necessity – Using acids without proper UV protection can lead to discoloration and weakened skin. Choose creams with SPF 50 and apply them daily.
• Apply in the evening to cleansed skin, wait a few minutes and then reach for the cream. Regular cleansing of the skin is the basis for effective exfoliation - our facial cleansing gel Reset Gel with a delicate formula will not damage the hydrolipid barrier.

After about 4-6 weeks With regular use you will notice improvement in texture and color.

The best AHA acids for mature skin

AHA acids (alpha-hydroxy acids) are one of the most effective active ingredients in the fight against wrinkles used in mature skin care. Depending on the skin's needs, it's worth choosing the appropriate type of acid that best meets its requirements.

Glycolic acid – revitalization and smoothing

Glycolic acid is one of the most commonly used AHAs, especially in anti-aging skincare. Due to its small molecule size, it effectively penetrates deep into the skin, stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis. This leaves the skin firmer, tighter, and smoother.

Its properties include:

• Exfoliation of dead skin, which makes the skin look fresh and radiant.
• Stimulating cell renewal, which reduces fine wrinkles and improves skin texture.
• Lightening discolorations, including sun spots and age spots.
• Supports hydration, by stimulating the production of natural water-binding ingredients in the skin.

Glycolic acid is especially effective for people with mature, gray complexion, that needs refreshing, regeneration and restoration of shine.

Lactic acid – gentle exfoliation and hydration

Lactic acid is one of the milder AHAs, ideal for mature and sensitive skin. It works by gradually removing dead skin cells while improving skin hydration.

Benefits of using lactic acid:

• Gentle exfoliation, without the risk of severe irritation, making it an ideal choice for sensitive skin.
• Moisturizing and protecting the hydrolipid barrier, making the skin soft and elastic.
• Brightening the skin and evening out its color, which helps reduce discoloration.
• Improvement of skin structure, minimizing fine lines and wrinkles.

Lactic acid works on the skin's surface, so it is gentler than glycolic acid, and at the same time effectively supports the regeneration of mature skin, ensuring its healthy, radiant appearance.

Mandelic acid – gentle renewal for sensitive skin

Mandelic acid has the largest molecule among AHAs, which allows it to act slowly and gently. It's an ideal choice for those with sensitive and irritation-prone skin who want to benefit from the beneficial properties of acids without the risk of excessive exfoliation and allergic reactions.

Benefits of mandelic acid:

• Gradual and gentle exfoliation, which helps improve skin texture without irritation.
• Antibacterial effect, which helps fight imperfections and clogged pores.
• Regulation of sebum secretion, which is important for people with combination skin and a tendency to adult acne.
• Supporting collagen synthesis, which improves skin elasticity and reduces the visibility of fine wrinkles.

Thanks to its gentle nature, mandelic acid can be used regularly, even by people with vascular and sensitive skin who want to improve their skin condition without the risk of dryness and irritation.

The best BHA acids for mature skin

BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids) work slightly differently than AHAs – they are fat-soluble, allowing them to penetrate the sebum layer and cleanse pores from within. They are particularly recommended for those with oily, combination, and acne-prone skin, but they can also be a valuable component of mature skincare, especially in combating enlarged pores, discoloration, and loss of firmness.

Salicylic acid – cleansing and discoloration reduction

Salicylic acid is the most popular BHA, known primarily for its anti-inflammatory and cleansing properties. Its ability to penetrate the sebum layer effectively unclogs pores, reduces blackheads, and prevents blemishes.

How does salicylic acid work?

• Cleanses pores and prevents them from clogging, which helps in reducing blackheads and acne lesions.
• Regulates sebum secretion, which makes the skin less oily and more matte.
• It has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, which helps reduce inflammation on the skin.
• Lightens discolorations and evens out skin tone, which is particularly important in the care of mature skin.
• Improves skin texture by smoothing out unevenness and fine lines.

Thanks to its properties, salicylic acid is an excellent solution for those struggling with enlarged pores, discoloration, and adult acne. It can be used both locally and on the entire face in the form of toners, serums, or creams.

What to combine AHA and BHA acids with and what to avoid?

Safe combinations include niacinamide, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid. Niacinamide soothes irritation after exfoliation and supports the skin barrier – niacinamide serum It will work well as a morning step when you use acids in the evening.

Ingredients that should not be combined with acids in the same routine:

• Retinol and retinoids – when used simultaneously with acids, they may excessively irritate the skin and weaken the protective barrier
• Vitamin C in high concentration – may destabilize the pH of acids and cause irritation
• Other exfoliating acids – applying AHA and BHA in one application increases the risk of dryness

Cosmetics with AHA and BHA acids in daily care

A well-rounded AHA or BHA routine doesn't have to be complicated. All you need is an exfoliating product used 2-3 times a week, a suitable moisturizer, and sunscreen during the day. Our offer includes inter-treatment cosmetics designed to support skin after aesthetic treatments. Niacinamide Lactic Acid Serum combines gentle exfoliation with the brightening properties of niacinamide. All formulas are created in collaboration with aesthetic medicine specialists.

FAQ – Frequently asked questions about AHA and BHA acids

Can AHA and BHA acids be used together?

Yes, you can combine AHAs and BHAs, but it's best to alternate them—for example, AHA one night, BHA the next. Using both types at the same time can overly irritate the skin.

How often should you use exfoliating acids?

Start with 1-2 times a week and gradually increase the frequency to 3-4 times, observing skin tolerance. Daily use is recommended only at low concentrations and after proper adaptation.

Can AHA and BHA acids irritate the skin?

Yes, if used in too high a concentration or too frequently, acids can cause redness, burning, and peeling. The key is to gradually introduce them and adjust the concentration to your skin type.

Which acid should I choose for discoloration?

AHAs, especially glycolic and lactic acids, are most effective against discoloration. They accelerate the exfoliation of discolored cells and stimulate the growth of new, evenly pigmented cells.

Footnotes:

1. Tang, S. C., Yang, J. H. (2018). Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin. Molecules, 23(4). https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules23040863
2. Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765